Some were also sanatoria for sufferers from tuberculosis which drew many to cure stations such as Davos in

Some were also sanatoria for sufferers from tuberculosis, which drew many to “cure stations” such as Davos in Switzerland, described in Thomas Mann’s novel The Magic Mountain. Generally insect powder and a tolerance to the pervasive stink of adjacent livestock were required.All this changed during the 19th century as the construction of railways and a desire to meet the requirements of a largely British clientele led to the creation of many fine hotels. Mount Pilatus near Lucerne has so many legends about dragons that it uses a salamander-like creature as its logo.The early hotels did little to endear the Alps to visitors. A good idea of the privations endured can be gained by a visit to the National St-Gotthard Museum at the summit of the pass on the spectacular postbus journey between Airolo and Andermatt in Switzerland (00 41 91 869 15 25, ).Besides hospices equipped with St Bernard dogs to help winkle errant travellers out of snowdrifts, some reasonable inns could be found in Switzerland at least. The 17th-century diarist John Evelyn thought them “horrid and fearful”, and as late as 1723 a Swiss Fellow of the Royal Society was writing detailed descriptions of Alpine dragons.

The Alps were seen as a barrier to trade and travel, and even their appearance was disliked by many until the Romantic poets and Turner got to work. Adam of Usk was so petrified when he crossed Switzerland’s Gotthard Pass in 1402 that he had to be blindfolded. Besides describing a high mountain, “alp” also means the mountain pastures where transhumance is still practised – the tradition of moving animals to high ground in summer, and back down to the valley in winter.Once good transport links and hotels were developed during the 19th century, the singular beauty of the Alps made them “the playground of Europe” ALWAYS A MUCH-ADMIRED AREA? Not at all. WHERE ARE WE TALKING ABOUT?

WHERE ARE WE TALKING ABOUT?
Europe’s largest area of mountains covers much of Switzerland but also encompasses France, northern Italy, Bavaria and western Austria. But the basic rooms – known at the Palomar as “king deluxe” – are lovely too, and you can always book yourself an in-room massage as a special treat.Freebies: Aveda bath products, and there is a free newspaper every morning. Best value is the Hotel Bijou, a couple of blocks away at 111 Mason Street (001 415 771 1200), where double rooms start at $95 (£65), which includes continental breakfast.. Rooms are also equipped with a hairdryer, iron and board and a bathrobe.Keeping in touch: every room has TV, radio, a cordless phone, internet socket, and a combined fax, copier and printer.THE BOTTOM LINEDoubles start at $219 (£145), although the rates change from day to day.I’m not paying that: there are plenty of other hotels nearby, although many are expensive: it’s that kind of district.

There is a choice of street view or a room overlooking the interior Zen garden; either is fine, and as all the windows are sealed it’s beautifully quiet wherever you are.The best rooms are the suites, each with a vast Jacuzzi tub that takes up most of the bathroom. Step out of the lift and you’re in a different world: all understated elegance and geometric lines. Carpets and furnishing have all been tastefully designed, and the bar is as stylish as any in the city; it’s just that it’s more difficult for the common tourist to wander in. But the restaurant is the real treat: you will need a reservation to get a table for dinner, though if you don’t book ahead your room key is enough to get you to the top of the waiting list.
LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATIONHotel Palomar, 12 Fourth Street, San Francisco, California (001 415 348 1111; ) – right in the heart of the downtown district, just off Market Street and handy for the fancy shops in Union Square. At ground-floor level there is nothing more than a discreet reception desk; the glamour doesn’t start until you get five floors up. In comparison with some other grand San Francisco hotels, the Palomar might seem a little disappointing at first sight: no plush lounges, no swanky bar, no glamorous people But appearances can be deceptive. A retired diplomat told me: “If you like holidays on the Costa Brava, I’d recommend a bog-standard cruise liner; if you’d prefer the Scottish Highlands, you’d be at home on a sailing ship.”TRAVELLER’S GUIDEWhat does it cost? Two people sharing an outside cabin would pay between £2,045 and £3,300 each for a 21-night voyage from Cannes to Barbados; from £1,290 to £2,345 if they joined at Malaga for the last 16 nights; £855 to £1,135 for the five-night trip from Cannes to Malaga.Food and drink: breakfast, lunch, tea, dinner and supper are included in the price and are excellent Drinks are not included.

Clientele: on my voyage, 49 passengers were from the US, 36 from Germany, 21 from the UK and 16 from Australia There were three couples on honeymoon The average age of passengers was 45. Most passengers described themselves as retired or semi-retired.Dress: jackets and ties are not required for dinner.Contact: Fred Olsen Travel on 01473 292229 or visit . No flying and no flies is an irresistible combination for many travellers.Why sail? Difficult to answer. It is different, it is beautiful, it seems more natural and is definitely a “romantic” way to travel.

You can even choose your own menu – one passenger had warned that she had a diet permitting only 12 types of food (it was a list including bread and salt).Why cruise? Some people simply don’t like flying. You can drive or take a train to most UK and mainland European ports – with as much luggage and as many changes of clothes as you can tug along. You live in an air-conditioned luxury hotel but, except for ocean crossings, wake up in a different resort most days. Except when travelling off the north African coast and Tenerife there are no flies, and never any mosquitoes. Interestingly, the emergency drill that was to have been held during the approach to Casablanca was postponed “because of inclement weather”.Mr Krafft’s intention was to provide a luxury level of sailing for people who are well-heeled but who can’t quite afford the extravagance of maintaining or chartering their own super-yacht. There was plenty of entertainment, but none of it compulsory apart from emergency drill; I include that as entertainment because, until you have watched 150 people try to don a lifejacket you can have no conception of the variety of different ways it can be attempted. In return for something over £2,000, you get three weeks of indulgence.