Maybe the original version made with salted meat was eaten by seamen in the days of sail ships and they

Maybe the original version, made with salted meat, was eaten by seamen in the days of sail ships and they dreamt of eating lobster. Turn up the oven to 200ºC/ 390ºF/ gas mark 6.Remove the foil and spread the onion mixture into the centres of the pastry. Cheese and onion pies are a speciality of the North-west.500g puff pastry 1 egg, beaten 600g onions, peeled and thinly sliced 2tbsp vegetable oil 1tsp chopped thyme leaves 50g butter 100g Lancashire cheese, broken into pieces Salt and freshly ground black pepperRoll the puff pastry to 1ž3cm thick, leave it to rest for 15 minutes then cut 4 rectangles, 14cm x 11cm. Bury is famous for its black pudding, and Eccles for its cakes, which seem to be having a revival. These are as good, if not better, than some of the fine French poultry available in supermarkets and specialist butchers. At least I think that’s what they are, but if anyone knows otherwise, please let me know. These are traditionally used at Lent to make a savoury pudding, something like pease pudding, or as my friend Annette does at Christmas, to keep the locals and Southern cooks happy.The North-west has exceptional foodstuffs.

There are great cheeses like Mrs Kirkham’s crumbly Lancashire, and Reg Johnston’s corn-fed ducks and chickens which take their name from Goosnargh, the village where he rears them. They seemed similar to those sold in the Taj Asian stores as brown chickpeas. This was my first time trying this classic stew – reminiscent of chunky unblended split pea and ham knuckle soup with the bones and bits of cartilage left in – and it was so good I had fours servings The same friend also serves thick-seam tripe with vinegar. The tripe isn’t recooked but straight off the slab from one of the few remaining tripe shops.After my cow heel conversion I went in search of the ingredients. I didn’t have to look that hard for either of them in Stockport market. In case it all disappeared before I arrived, no one was allowed to start until I did. We’re cooking risotto with ceps, dressed crab, roast partridge and apple and blackberry crumble, in case you were wondering.

Should be a night to remember.But it’s round at family and friends in the North that I’ve had some really memorable meals. He’s playing a big part in the Manchester Food and Drink Festival, and has persuaded me and Alan Bird, my head chef at The Ivy, to come up and cook at Simply Heathcote’s in Manchester this Thursday. An exception is my mate Paul Heathcote whose great little empire includes restaurants in Manchester, Longridge and Preston. That’s where my ex-wife (in case you’ve been wondering about my marital status) and daughters, Ellie and Lydia, live, near Stockport, surrounded by an extended Northern family that I think of as mine, too. I can’t pretend I’m anything but a born-and-bred Southerner But I do have a close connection with the North-west. Poised, smoky oak and raspberry undertones and a nicely evolved palate of juicy red berries are enhanced by a refreshing, food-friendly acidity more often associated with Italian reds.. At the same time it’s a lively, full-bodied palate of fresh, almost lemon-crisp chardonnay that goes down a treat with pasta, risotto or dressed crab.