Just a few miles south of Tulum is the tip of the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve a protected 1

Just a few miles south of Tulum is the tip of the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve, a protected 1.3-million-acre nature sanctuary, which gives visitors a privileged glimpse of the myriad Yucatan ecosystems.A Unesco World Heritage Site, Sian Ka’an comprises tropical forest, salt-water marshes and a barrier reef. The site is also nesting territory for endangered sea-turtle species. While you may enter the reserve unaccompanied, it’s best to contact a professional guide to get the most out of your trip and to avoid the tricky drive along the bumpy approach. Centro Ecologico Sian Ka’an (00 52 984 871 2499; www.cesiak ) offers group tours. Its all-day canal tour, which includes a swim in the cenotes (natural underground pools common to the Yucatan), costs US$68 (£40) per person. A pick-up service for guests of nearby hotels (including Zamas – see below) is also offered. The organisation is devoted to the upkeep of the reserve, so at least you know your money will be put to good use.For a typical Mayan Riviera experience, you could stay in a cabana at the Hotel Zamas (001 415 387 9806; www.zamas ).

The hotel is the perfect antidote to commercial Cancun and is right on the as-yet-unspoilt beach at Tulum, within walking distance of the impressive Mayan ruins. Be sure to bring warm clothing and a torch for the sometimes cool winter nights – the area is relatively undeveloped and the beach and roads are unlit at night, with the notable exception of fireflies.Bungalows at Zamas sleeping four people start at US$145 (£85) per night in December, room only, but be prepared to pay in cash or travellers’ cheques as the hotel, like most Tulum establishments, does not take credit cards.Moving inland, the Yucatan capital of Merida in the north-west of the peninsula is a beautiful colonial city with a strong Mayan identity and would make an equally interesting base with a wide range of accommodation, including a number of converted sisal haciendas. Ariel House (7), 50-54 Lansdowne Road, Ballsbridge (00 353 1 668 5512; www.ariel-house ) is a quiet gem, set in the south-east of the city within walking distance of Merrion Square. The elegant 19th-century house has 37 bedrooms furnished with antiques and swathes of curtains Doubles cost from €99 (£70) including breakfast.

CHECK IN Among the most elegant hotel options in Dublin is the boutique Brownes Hotel (5), 22 St Stephen’s Green (00 353 1 638 3939; www.brownesdublin ), a sumptuous Georgian house, its 11 bedrooms newly refurbished Doubles start at €185 (£125), breakfast included. A good mid-price option is Trinity Capital Hotel (6), Pearse Street (08000 969 289; www.capital-hotels ), a bright, stylish outfit just down the road from Trinity College (3) Doubles cost from €125 (£85) including breakfast. The main tourist office (4) also lies on the south bank, housed in the decommissioned, neo-gothic Church of St Andrew in Suffolk Street, (00 353 1 605 7700; www.visitdublin ). Pick up a free map here: the office opens 9am-5.30pm Monday-Saturday (until 7pm in September); Sunday 10.30am-3pm. Traditionally the north side has been regarded as working class, the south affluent and more genteel. Many of Dublin’s major attractions lie to the south: the city’s glorious Georgian squares; the vibrant, if raucous, Temple Bar area, filled with caf? and sublime Trinity College (3), founded in 1591 by Queen Elizabeth I.