Ah folklore

Ah, folklore.Railway up and running, the town grew primarily as a “cowtown”: in 1893, Amarillo’s population was listed as “500-600 humans and 50,000 cattle”, and ranches in the area still produce about 25 per cent of America’s beef. These names in turn are thought to have come either from the yellow-tinged soil alongside the creek, or perhaps the yellow wild flowers that carpeted the ground in spring – or a wild horse that used to frequent the area. Originally named Oneida, before long the “city to be” was renamed Amarillo (the word means “yellow” in Spanish but was figuratively used to mean “wild horse”) after nearby Amarillo Creek and Lake. Cut into the Texas plain by the Prairie Dog fork of the Red River, see the cliffs, colours and rock formations as you hike the State Park’s trail to The Lighthouse and you’ll swear you’re in the deserts of the south-western USA not northern Texas.Not far east, Caprock Canyons State Park, smaller and quieter, is also spectacular.

Its 90 miles of hiking, biking and horseback riding trails include the Park’s pi? de r?stance, the 64-mile Trailways System (which follows an abandoned railway line).The city’s history is recent: buffalo roamed the plains until the Fort Worth and Denver City Railway Company began building across the panhandle area in 1887, and some merchants chose a site alongside the tracks for a new settlement. At 800ft deep and over 110 miles long this is the second biggest canyon in the US (after the Grand one in Arizona), and truly spectacular. Whether art purists (and locals) like it or not, Marsh’s whims have given the city a much-needed injection of fun. It’s not just Stanley Marsh 3 who plays tricks in this area, though: nature herself seems to join in.

The landscape in this part of Texas is excruciatingly flat and largely featureless, but a short drive south of Amarillo brings you to Palo Duro Canyon. “If putting up these stupid signs all around town makes Amarillo more interesting,” sighed another citizen, “God help us.” Yet the respondent who said “Thank God we have him: takes the edge off dullness,” probably sums up the feelings of the majority. “He’s just a rich kid graffiti-ing up the place,” was one comment in a local newspaper. The Royal suite costs a jaw-slackening US$3,630 (£2,267) per night.I’m not paying that: If you’d like some more modern surroundings, LoiSuites, Recoleta, Vincente Lopez 1955 (00 54 11 5777 8950; .ar), offers double rooms from US$151 (£94) per night room-only. Mobile telephones are also available for an extra charge.THE BOTTOM LINEDouble rooms start from US$492 (£310) per night with breakfast. In keeping with the general air of opulence, these are decorated with French-style furniture, gilt-framed oil paintings, and Frette Egyptian cotton on the beds. The bathrooms are clad in marble and gold, and most have a Jacuzzi bath.To get you in the mood, the hotel also offers a reasonably priced US$10 (£6.25) jet-lag massage.Freebies: Divine-smelling Herm?Eau d’Orange Vert toiletries, a fruit basket, a daily newspaper and a personal butler, who will attend to your every whim.